3D Print Stronger Parts! 3D Printing 101

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3D Printing can be made stronger through a number of tweaks. In this video i'll show you what you need to change in your Slicer to make tough, functional parts that should last a very long time!

This video is proudly supported by Simplify3D. Visit https://www.simplify3d.com/ to learn more.

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Channel:  Maker's Muse
Maker's Muse 

Welcome to Maker's Muse! Recent uploads are playing choppy at any res under 720HD, please choose HD playback for best viewing experience. We are investigating the issue. Happy Printing!


Diego Gastaldi 

Usefull tips. When I need extremely high resistance I print my object with 0% infill and two small holes in the position I consider to be the best then I use this holes to instill bicomponent resin. It becames as hard as a rock.


big D's 

This doesn't help me. I am trying to make a flanged face and shaft extension to another flanged face. the flanges just snap on the joints at the shaft. It seems as the mesh just surface mounts the shaft to the flange face. I designed it in Fusion360 for the shaft to be extruded through the whole thickness of the flange. I have done all you say except the 25% overlap.

Another model i have breaks apart just taking the supports off.


tazztone 

you could also add a radius any inner corners, so it's less likely to rip there


Danny Kenny 

I have a question about raising the layer height, although it does give it less layers, which then means less areas that can come apart, I would think it would make the layers not fused together as well? Cause in my mind I imagine with a layer height of 0.15 it would be sort of "pressing" the layers down on top of each other while with a layer height of 0.25 it would be sort of just "laying down" the next layer on top? I realize that is quite exaggerated and that if that is true then it would be so tiny it wouldn't be noticeable, anyways am I totally off and wrong for thinking that?


MAGA MAN 

While this video was very helpful, I would never mount a holder for my drill on the side of the work bench, especially the way you have it attached. It will be in the way and it will get knocked off constantly. Better to either attach it to a peg board, or fasten it to the wall using screws, where it is out of the way while you are working at the bench.


Saeed 

Is this the same guy from the game of thrones? hahahaha. Good video.


jakub rembacz 

i use my prints as props for greensand casting, the result is usually indestructability at expense of weight


WCGwkf 

Why not mention the use of more durable materials? I just started using PETG and once dialed in it looks just as good as pla and it doesn't cost a penny more and the stuff is strong as hell. I'm working on a part that needs insane impact strength and it only broke only after multiple hard impacts with a rubber mallet with a steel part on it.


Jordan Clarke 

Very interesting video last year I built a automatic 3D printed farm gate opener the tooth pulley were first printed in 0.3 mm and they failed within a few minutes then I reprinted them on. 1mm layer height and a year later they're still working with no real signs of wear. This seems to be opposite to everything I've read but having said that maybe the forces on the part are different


KiR-3d 

Hi! Why not doing the anneal procedure over all this?

P.S. I've thought that 210 is the min temp. for PLAs O_o How's that?


Dmitry Arkhipov 

нахуя ты это делаешь


Schaller Industries 

One more setting I have used when there is a 'towering' appendage sticking up off of a flat surface. Something that could be easily snapped off by bending it sideways. In this case the surface layers at the base of the appendage would lift off of the infill and break away. Simplify 3D has a 'Print every infill angle on each layer' check box on the Infill tab. I didn't notice before this failure that the infill layers were not all identical. They alternate every other layer. Checking this box makes each layer fully bond to the previous infill layer.


albertroswell 

just coincidentally paused at this moment haha https://i.imgur.com/imr2EHQ.png 0:05


Davistro1 

Like a exoskellet. Nature has allready build it.


Sangeeta Jekkula 

. Is there testing data as to the internal fluid pressures printed parts can withstand?


Sangeeta Jekkula 

Who manufacturers these printers, what do they cost and are there published technical performance standards compared to other technologies such as milling, forging?


Sangeeta Jekkula 

Are there technical specifications related to the strength of printed parts


Sangeeta Jekkula 

What materials can be used to print high tolerance parts


Feindsender 

Nice vid. Thanks. Were you recording under any time pressure?


Peter S. Fam 

Another option is annealing the piece, I know Thomas Sanladerer has a video on baking PLA parts to increase strength.


Kathryn Orvis 

My normal print temp is 205c or 115c some were between those I never go below 202 on any of my prints even know that’s over board for hatchbox PLA but I like the finish it gives it and oh ya my printer on those temps can get down to 0.20 mm I can’t do 0.10 mm top because I printed the tol test at 0.25 layer height and my printer is the MP mini delta but it’s rellly tounded sorry I can’t spell because I’m only 12.


Zach Crawford 

I have never had a print delaminate. I've had them shatter under extreme loads though lol.


Michael S 

A year has passed since this excellent video was released and I still see videos of people printing practical objects with thin walls.


Truly Infamous 

Even though 3D printing is super efficent and easy to use, but machined parts are the strongest until 3D printers that use metal can be as easy to get as a normal 3D printer.


Tim Steel 

Сенк ю вэри матч. Я почти нихрена не понял, но узнал много интересного.


Jeremiah 

Why would you use pla for this instead of abs ?


Backlap 

In some cases, small internals channels (1 x 1mm) will help too. They will generate top and bottom layers inside the print as well as a few perimeters


Eric Jensen 

I've started dividing my parts so that when combined that have orientation strength in every direction they need it. I made an extruder head that had hinges but those hinges would be weak in relation to the strength I needed for the whole part. My solution was to have the hinge pivots printed in their strongest orientation and then insert them into the head part


Alex Barrett 

Love these videos Angus, by far one of the most useful 3D printing resources


Zona ALG 

I saw that baking PLA will make it even stronger


Sporty Marc 

a pipe is STRONGER than a full bar! i mean.. thats the trick, right?


Lodge Cav 

Hi Angus, I am new to your channel & 3d printing & F360, so steep learning curve ahead! Out of interest, is it possible to 3d print over an existing structure in order to gain strength? I appreciate the complications regarding the nozzle path etc but is it do-able with software? In conventional clay modelling I believe the structure would be called an armature. Thank you for a great channel!


Brad M 

I was printing a gear the other day, 100% infill came out nasty, I just did 16 top and 16 bottom layers so it went all the way through the gear perfectly and bam perfectly solid piece.


Jay O 

Lol i just noticed that although the video is about printing a rack for your drill, it is just sitting on your desk behind you the whole time! minor fail :P


Marcus Mravik 

Would an acetone vapor bath possibly make the part stronger?


Kathryn Orvis 

I print all my stuff at 200f


Dinesh Vyas 

Most important is print orientation.


Jeremiah Bullfrog 

You want to know how good this video is? I took notes! THAT'S how good it is! You gave me lots of useful tips I will put to use. It would be interesting to know at what point should I start questioning the quality of the filament itself.


wlehtola 

Lmao in end of video drill still on countertop.


Ian Moody 

What desing softwear did you use


freddan6fly 

Sweet, I will try the improvements. Previously just added higher % infill but it did not help


dex _ 

1. Increase infill percentage 1:17 (not the full story)

2. Increase surface thickness 1:30 (better)

3. Increase layer height 2:10 (don't go past 80% of nozzle diameter)

4. Increase extrusion width 3:06

5. Increase extrusion multiplier 3:23

6. Increase print temperature 3:35

Bonus: Increase infill overlap 4:10


Paul Bransford 

Have you ever experimented with annealing? I bet this would go a long way in increasing strength - especially against delamination.


Joa Harrison 

Nice video- on point and excellent, thanks.


Michael Jensen 

I know it's a common belief that you don't need to print at 100% infill for strong parts -- but when I tried it, I was blown away by how rigid my part came out -- it was noticeably more rigid than anything else I'd ever printed before (including the same part). Like night and day different. -- Also, if you're printing with clear PLA, it looks great. (Like actually decently translucent without a lot of extra work.)


Paul Gross 

I found that by far the biggest improvement in PLA strength comes from post-production annealing.

Thomas Sanlanderer did a great video on this too.

It has the added benefit of greatly increasing the maximum temperature that PLA withstand too. My annealed PLA parts will not change dimension even when immersed in boiling water.


danny bolanos 

Am I the only one who thought he 3D printed the drill?


dimman77 

Would acetone smoothed ABS be stronger than standard printed from the surface layers welding together? Or does it become brittle from the chemical reaction?


WaynesWorkVlog 

also baking your PLA after printing will help the layers bond better